For five months in 2003 John Colgan abstracted records of every tenant and landlord of every property in Leixlip and environs from Griffith’s General Valuation of Ireland records and the ‘Cancellation Books’ as they are known – the record of an official who later called to every door, annually and later less frequently, to determine who was the tenant/occupier and who the tenant thought was the landlord.  The official also noted the rateable valuation of the house, if any, and buildings, and separately of the land and its acreage.  Occasionally comments were made about improvements made, or the state of dilapidation etc.

It is available here in pdf format which is fully searchable.  It is called:

WHO LIVED WHERE IN LEIXLIP, 1850-1967

Who their landlord was; the area, if any, of their land, its worth and other observations

WHO LIVED WHERE IN LEIXLIP, 1850-1967
Who their landlord was; the area, if any, of their land, its worth and other observations
Compiled by John Colgan © 2008 johncolgan at iol.ie

Here is an example from the townland of Leixlip; the farm and house, called the Music Hall, is no longer; it is part of Intel Ireland’s lands. The house was demolished when the lands belonged to the Industrial Development Authority.

LEIXLIP

  Tenant/Immediate Occupier Landlord   Property           Rateable Valuation
1 John Hackett Esq (1850) Rev JTC Saunders (1850-1909) house offices and land   £21 house
> Alexr Wardrop (c1855-9)    ho, off & land [126 acres]  £141 total       
> Peter Keiler (1861-72)    Music Hall aka Ryebrook aka Rockfield
> Edward Carty (1873)
> Rev J Leman (1874)
> Rev J Leman &
Rev IM Ebenerecht (1876-80) 
> Rev JM Ebenrecht (1881-1902)

1a James Cullen  Reps Rev JTC Saunders (->1928) ditto 146a 3r 33p   £141
> Frank E Ward (c1913)
> Philip Skipworth (1914-20)
> James Fagan (1921?-7-48) ditto   ditto ditto  bldgs now £25 10s (1921) £168 (1921)
> Peter Cullen (1949-64) > In fee: LAP (1952)  House of & land [66 acres, (1952)]                       £25 house (1952)
NOW CALLED Lot 1Aa (1952)    
> James O’Shea (1965-7) “ 1959 1st App[eal]” £20 house (1959)
       “1965 Work in progress”

There are preliminary notes to help the novice tracing their own or others’ forbearers.

There are around 4,000 tenants listed in the document of ~41,000 words.  Any name or word may be traced in the entire.

John Colgan is the author of Leixlip, County Kildare, 97 topics on ~300 pages and as many colour illustrations. The last of the print-run are available from the author at €50, or €55 including P&P.

Leixlip, C1900.

Prafatorial Remarks:  The pair of iron gates into the church and graveyard are embossed in the usual place by Courtney & Stephens, who were connected with Henry Courtney, Leixlip Iron Works.  Most of this selection was obtained by recording the data on a tape recorder.  The typescript has since been checked against the gravestones.

ARDIFF   [a flat slab] Erected by Mary Ardiff in memory of her husband, Edward Ardiff  who died February 6th 1815 aged 77 years.  Mary Ardiff who died 15/10/1825 aged 75 years.

ARDIFF   Henry Ardiff who died 14th September 1911 aged 45 years and also his infant son, Eddie, and his parents, Henry and Mary who died in 1899.  And also his wife Elizabeth who died 26/3/1940 aged 68 years.

BEAN  In loving memory of Joseph Bean died 8 March 1931 aged 17 and Madeleine Bean died 24 February 1933 aged 22 years and their grandparents Joseph and Mary Bean

BLAKE  Erected by Alice Blake in memory of her loving husband William Blake died 11/4/1922 aged 69 years.  Her daughter Mary Dunne died 20/4/1915 aged 25 years.  Rose Blake died 19/7/1913 aged 20 and the above Alice died 7/9/1955 aged 89.

COLGAN  Patrick Colgan who died 27/4/1913 aged 65 years.  Also his wife Anne Colgan who died 24/9/1933 aged 83 years.  And their children 13/6/1937; Pierce died 18/5/1956; Katherine Maher died 11/5/1959; Patrick died 15/9/1960.  On the side of the stone is written: Nicholas Maher died 26/4/1964 and his son Pierce died 31/12/1975.  On the opposite site is written:  Also their children Joseph died 10/7/1962; Esther died 8/12/1962; Mary died 24/2/1972.

COOGAN  In loving memory of Edward Coogan, Maynooth, who died 2/3/1938 and his son Jack died 15 January 1906 and his wife Marcella Coogan died 11/2/1955. Also their sons William – 5/5/1965; Eddie – 15.8.1966; Gerald – 10/8/1967, daughter Nano – 20/2/1975; Christopher – 25/7/1976.

COONEY  Thomas Cooney of Collinstown died Nov 4th 1736 aged 72[?].  His wife Ann[?] she died …. 26th 1792.

DOWNES  Erected by Edward Downes in memory of his beloved father Denis Downes who died 21st October 1859 aged 62 years and also his mother Catherine Downes who died 30 May 1872 aged 58 years.  Also Joan Margaret and Patrick Downes of Maynooth who died young.   Nearby is an older Downes or Dowans stone from 1768 and near dates.

EATON  This stone belongeth to T[homas?] Eaton and his posterity 1766

FOSTER  Joseph Foster died 1781.  Stone on flat; more…

GLENNON  Arthur?  Catherine Glennon late of Leixlip erected this headstone in memory of her beloved husband Luke Glennon died 13th August 1872.  His sister Mary also died in August 1872.

HANLON  Erected by Elizabeth Hanlon to the memory of Patrick Hanlon her husband who departed this life 26th April 1774 aged 70 years.

KILDUFF  Joseph Kilduff, Ballygoran, died 7th February 1945 aged 31.  His son Michael Kilduff died 24/1/1971 aged 84 years.  Julia, wife of Michael died 3/10/1978 aged 79 years.

O’DONNELL  Martin O’Donnell died 10/12/1975 aged 68 years; Matthew O’Donnell, President, St Patrick’s College, Maynooth, who died 27th September 1996 aged 63 years.

PEPARD  Here lyeth the body of Thomas Pepard who departed this life AD 1715[?] and also Elizabeth dec’d wife of John Pepard by whom this was erected 1719 [or 1729].

SHERRY  Lance Corporal M Sherry, Irish Guards, 17 June 1918, aged 26, [no.] 5365.  In the same, large plot are Rose Smith, and Margaret Sherry, Matthew Sherry, Mary Anne Sherry, Patrick Sherry.

SHERRY  Margaret Sherry died 10 August 1932.

SHERRY  Matthew Sherry died October 1914.

SHERRY  Richard Sherry died 5/10/1974.

SHERRY Mary Anne Sherry died 12/12/1923 aged 61 years.  Her husband Patrick died 25/1/1955 aged 88 years.  Their son John died November 1918 and daughter Rose Gough died October 1942.  Mary O’Connor, nee Sherry, died November 25th 1943 aged 75 years.  Michael O’Connor died 13th October 1902 aged 93 years.

SMITH  In memory of Rose Smith, Leixlip, died 7th December 1956.   In Sherry plot.

WEAFER   Erected by Joseph Weafer in memory of his beloved wife, Bridget, departed this life 17/9/1880 aged 76.  Also two of his children Margaret and Joseph who died young.

WEAFER  In loving memory of my dear husband Joseph Weafer, Sunview, Maynooth who died 7th May 1933 aged 62 years.

WEAFER  Matthew Weafer, Carton lodge, Maynooth, who died 8th July 1960 aged 83.  Anna Maria Weafer who died 5th December 1924 aged 18.  Margaret (Peg) Weafer nee Bracken, died 12/12/1940 aged 33 years; Bridget (Bea) nee McGovern, wife of Thomas Weafer, died 14/7/1969 aged 54 years; Annie, wife of Matthew Weafer, died 23/10/1969 aged 93 years; their son, Thomas Weafer, main St., Maynooth, died 18/5/1973 aged 61.

WETTLETON  Erected by Matilda Turner in memory of her brother William Wettleton who died May 9th 1861 aged 18 years.

NOTE THAT LORD WALTER FITZGERALD RECORDED GRAVESTONES HERE.  THEY MAY BE IN HIS PAPERS IN THE NATIONAL LIBRARY.  IT IS UNCLEAR WHETHER HE RECORDED ALL OF THEM; MOST LIKELY A SELECTION.

The late Sean O'Riordain, Professor of Archaeology, UCD, and his wife, Gabriel Hayes O'Riordain, sculptor and coin designer, both of whom are deceased and buried in Donaghcumper

ASHE   James, Easton Road, Leixlip, died 4/1/1975 aged 64; wife Mary died 17/5/1986 aged 75.

BEHAN   John, 48 Main St., Leixlip, died 11/6/1987 aged 33.

CANE   In loving memory of Eva, wife of Claude Cane of St Wolstan’s, married 1/3/1882, died 9/9/1914.

CLEMENTS   Henry died 6/8/1974 aged 75; Violet died 19/2/1980 aged 77; Kitty died 8/6/1991 aged 91; all of Killadoon.

COLGAN   In loving memory of Peter, Colwel, Templemills, Celbridge, died 23/6/1987 aged 82.  Erected by his wife and family.

COOGAN   Christopher died 12/5/1934 aged 78.

DELANEY   In loving memory of Thomas Delaney, Blakestown, Leixlip, died 20/11/194x, also his son Joe Delaney died 15/4/199 aged 49.

DONOVAN   John died 10/8/1974 aged 64. Green Lane, Leixlip

FINLAY   Lilian Maud, [nee Williams, Toll House, Leixlip] died 3/1/1969 aged 72  -  her husband John died 14/3/1974 aged 89 years  -  for 51 years land steward to Kirkpatrick family.

GALLIVAN   In memory of Thomas Gallivan, Hillford House, died May 1952.  Also his wife Patricia Gallivan died July 1958.

GALLIVAN   Michael Gallivan, MD, died 30/12/1935; Daniel died 10/8/1939; Sarah Jane died 1/2/1940; Maire died 31/1/1993; Bernard J. died 24/11/1975.

GROGAN   In loving memory of Catherine and Thomas.

KIRKPATRICK   Alexander Richard d. 17/2/1891 aged 77 and Catherine Louisa died 15/10/1910 aged 78  [and many more, and Thorold]   Richard Trench Kirkpatrick, Captain Leinster Regiment, killed in Uganda 26/11/1898 aged 33.

McNALLY   Annie died 25/11/1941 aged 66; her husband Nicholas died 2/12/1947 aged 73; their daughter Teresa (Terry) died 14/10/1977 and their daughter Margaret died 3/1/1986.

McGETTIGAN   In loving memory of John, died 11/4/1976.

MITCHELL   In loving memory of Bridget, died April 1974.

MOLYNEAUX   Elizabeth late of canal banks, Hazelhatch and Main Street, Celbridge, died 14/1/1972 aged 87.  Erected by her family

O’RIORDAIN   In memory of Sean P. D Litt MRIA, Newbridge Lodge, Celbridge, Professor of Archaeology UCD, died 11/4/1957.  Gabriel Hayes O’Riordain, artist, died 28/10/1978.

PIM   Vera died 18/1/1977, wife of Francis E., died 28/12/1981, Kilmacredock House, Leixlip.

RUDDLE   Rose Wilhelmina died 8/4/1963 aged 83  -  late of Weston Park, Leixlip.

SAUNDERS   Erected by James Saunders in loving memory of his father Charles Saunders, who died 25/7/1896 aged 89; his mother Catherine Saunders died 9/3/1906 aged 84; their son John died 26/12/1909 aged 45; their daughter Esther Canning died 5/2/1920 aged 69; their son William died 18/3/1922 aged 71.

SKERRETT  Maureen died 15/1/1988  -  Celbridge and Pimlico  -  husband Henry died 28/2/1999  -  erected by their daughter Teresa

TYNAN   Edward (Ned)  -  Cooldrinagh  20/2/1900 ~ 13/6/1986.

TYNDALL   Mat died 1950 aged 58.  His father Mathew died 1919 aged 59.

Read article by John Colgan - Leixlip Around 1798

A turret or gazebo stood in Cooldrinagh lands overlooking the river and the place of a broken bridge, only one arch of which remained.

The Rye Water took the same general course to the north of the town and tumbled down to join the Liffey; its bed was nearer the land surface; it subdivided into several fingers in the Newtown area before descending to the confluence with the Liffey near the existing Boat House in Leixlip demesne.

A road from Ryevale House, then called Robertsville, after the first owner, Robert Lawe, Barrackmaster General of Ireland, crossed the Rye at what is now called Distillery Lane and a ‘Manufactory’ there, driven by water power, provided employment for men, women, and children as young as nine years in processing calico. Lawe, too, owned this.

James Smyth, a calico printer there, was a leading rebel in 1798. This road continued east towards St Catherine’s Park en route for Dublin on the north bank of the Liffey. The Boat House was not the folly it is today. The Rye Water was also divided to encircle the Island Farm to the rear of James Glascock’s Music Hall and residence, the remains of which continued until the Industrial Development Authority’s acquisition of Collinstown in the 1970s. Downstream of Distillery Lane and just up from the bridge over the Rye on Main Street, was another water-powered and ancient corn mill, whose workers lived in several small cabins alongside the Rye.

Ennis’s Mill on Rye

Facing Rye Cottage were residences of farmers, James Coogan and John Rowe (aka Roe) and another holding of Christopher Rowe, each under leases from 1794.

Rye Cottage Main Street

The miller lived in the three-storey, Mill House, currently French Estates, at the east corner of Buckley’s Lane.

Access to the Castle was by way of a road which ran through the burial ground in front of St Mary’s Church, then much as it is today and via a ford over the Rye to the foot of the hill to the front of the Castle.

However in 1783 the business of the town was flourishing prompting Lady Louisa Conolly to have a market house built in the yard in front of St Mary’s Church. The Church’s railings were added later, ~1840.  A humped-back bridge crossed the Rye at the end of the Main Street by 1793, quite near the beginning of Buckley’s Lane, then the entrance to Edward Bulkeley’s premises. Water from the Liffey reached up into what is now Maher’s Lane, almost to Main Street level. This was the town’s watering slip, for which slips the government provided encouragement. Horses and carts descended it to fill barrels with water for all purposes. Rye Cottage was as it is today, then in the possession of Mr John Whealon, distiller. There had been a slaughterhouse to the rear. Between Rye Cottage and the Rye Water, and forward to the street, was Eleanor Tankard’s ‘Bridge Tenement’, a very small square-sectioned cabin. It may have been a watch-house. The footprint of what is now Sam’s Chipper was much the same as it is today, complete with setback (20ft 6in deep by 8ft 6in wide) at the entrance to the lane; it was then rented to widow, Jane Herbert, and a ‘bakehouse’ operated there with a yard to rear. The house now known as the Glebe or Yellow House, then called Glynn’s tenement (probably after the builder of the Wonderful Barn), had been used as a residence by military officers attached to units garrisoned in the Castle.

Sir Richard Steele lived there. Steele was shot and injured at the battle of Ovidstown, near Maynooth, on 19/6/1798. Another military tenant of the place was Captain Douglass (1793) of the Argyle Fencibles. The Castle had been the home of Major General Robert Sandford, known as ‘Captain O’Blunder’, who had beautified the place. He died in 1793. He was long past his army career at this stage. During the turbulent times that immediately followed, he was succeeded by other military leaders, such as Major Brown. In 1808 the demesne lands were surveyed for Major Brown in a letting to Francis Thos Power, a clothing manufacturer. Power probably used what was later to be the parish hall as his factory where he made ladies clothes. Shortly before Sandford’s tenure it was used as a summer residence by Lord Townshend, the Viceroy, who returned to Ireland during the rebellion of 1798 as a soldier. A map made of the Castle for the landlord after Sandford’s death, showed far more buildings than thirty years later. The demesne lands were let to locals: Widow Cassidy, John Dalton, Neal, Murray, Coane, Coogan, etc.  Cassidy may have been the widow of a prominent Kildare Loyalist of the Rebellion period. A Michael Dalton held the ‘Swan Holding’; its whereabouts is unknown, but as it was worth over £25 pa, it was substantial. William Bruce, an established Dublin stationer, was leasing the ‘Salmon Leap Holding’, from Tom Conolly, the location indeterminate. A map attached to the lease is puzzling as the land doesn't seem to be near either the Inn or the river, but more in the Cedar Park/ Green Lane/ Station Road area of today. 

John Healy lived in a cottage at the junction of Old Hill and Station Road (within the curtilage of the later Hillford House); the Duke of Leinster and other turnpike commissioners met in his house on 5/2/1803 to discuss the compensation which might be payable to occupiers of premises on the route of the proposed new ‘bypass’ of the Old Hill.

Among those affected were Pearce Cassidy, Catherine Hynes, Denis Nowlan, Thomas Doonan, John Dalton, and yeoman, Nicholas Dempsey  A jury to assess the damages included Rodio Guinness, Mark Cannon and Thomas Goodshaw, all of Leixlip town; and William Rose, a Yeoman, of Collinstown. St Mary’s Church was the ‘established’ or State church and its vestry had oversight over some civilian matters, including law and order. A ‘Court Leet’, centred on the Castle, dealt with civil disputes. The ‘Papist’ or RC community worshipped in a small chapel hidden away on the banks of the Rye; it also served as a school and probably as a residence for the curate; Andrew Ennis, the parish priest, was shared with Maynooth.

The Dublin to Mullingar turnpike road had been open since 1732 or shortly afterwards. The Main Street at the end of the century was not dissimilar to today’s road. At the east end, Shingled House (then occupied by Charles – brewer -  and Anne Fellows, assigns of John Barton, brewer, a branch of whose family established themselves in the wine business in France) and Ivy House (then occupied by George, the earliest of the Fergusson doctors or ‘surgeons’) were about fifty years old. The Toll House on the bridge would have had its porch recently added, with iron-barred windows to the front and a padlocked pair of gates added outside, in recognition of the troubled times there were in it. These bars would have been made by the tenant, Peter Tannam, a blacksmith and farrier. Tannam, despite his occupation leading to a natural, strong suspicion of him as a maker of illicit weapons by the government forces, survived the rebellious period into the 1820s. A local yeoman, Nicholas Dempsey, stood guard by the Toll House porch. Across the bridge, the Salmon Leap Inn, had not long been rebuilt (probably after a fire); landlord, Tom Conolly, required it to be roofed in slates as a condition of the tenancy.

Salmon Leap Inn and Liffey Bridge c1760

The tenant at the turn of the century was ‘George Warner’s representatives’ (indicating that he was dead); however, Richard Guinness may have been the hands-on tenant at the time. Richard had continued working his more famous brother, Arthur Guinness’s first serious brewery, built in the then fashionable courtyard style, on the Main Street until the turn of the century. Water was supplied from wells now beneath the footpaths to the street. The Courtyard Hotel (est. 2005) includes the brewery buildings.  Richard Guinness lived in Castle View, a detached house on Main Street, later to be a barracks. He was compensated for losses of hay, cattle etc at Sallins in the Rebellion.
Cooldrinagh Lane was only recently opened up as a road, and the terrace of houses on the east side newly built. The remains of the old road to the New Bridge at Parsonstown on the south side of the Liffey was in place and used by Leixlip workers to go to and from the flax or corn mill on the Liffey, later to be Wookey’s flock mills.

Charles Croker, an attorney, lived a Croker Lodge, within Backweston Park, through whose lands the road traversed. Over at the corner of Mill Lane and Main Street (now EBS financial services) stood the ‘shoemaker’s tenement’, occupied by Christopher McGowan: it passed to his son, William, a cabinet-maker, in 1805.  Also in the vicinity of Mill Lane, including the north side of the street, were tenants John Downes and Widow Barry.

Deep down in Mill lane stood the Leixlip iron works, the only such in Co Kildare. It was run for some years by Daniel Marston (aka Marsden) until his death about 1798 at a comparatively young age. Was his death from natural causes, or a consequence of rebellion? A couple of Marston’s children had died in the preceding few years. He is said to have lived at St Catherine’s Park and was a man of considerable means. He is buried in St Mary’s churchyard; the table stone over his grave is now quite indecipherable.  His eldest son, Captain Molyneux Marston, succeeded him. The iron mills made spades, bar iron etc, and would be a prime suspect for the secret making of pike heads and other weapons. During this period iron was sometimes supplied to the landlord, Conolly, of Castletown House, in lieu of rent.

Adjoining it stood the corn mill in the tenancy of John McDaniel. For several decades now, both had shared one mill race, whereas hitherto there had been two. The Black Castle (ca 17c), probably at least a storey taller and with a basement below the current ground-floor, stood guarding the road to Dunboyne, now called Sileachán Lane.

There was a tendency in modern times for the Black Castle to be occupied by one of the millers working nearby. The Beere family, one of whom married a daughter of John Molyneaux (d1736), lived in Leixlip and early in the 19th century in this house. On 14/2/1798, the Irish House of Commons ordered that Daniel Beere, Deputy Pursuivant [= follower, attendant] of the court of the Exchequer, do attend at the Bar of this House forthwith. He was taken into custody, examined at the Bar and then discharged.   Oral tradition has it that the Black Castle was occupied in 1798 by the military and a gallows erected outside, perhaps as much for to terrorise the local peasants as for use.  On both sides of the Black Castle stood nine or ten two-roomed thatched cottages, one half for the use of iron workers and their families, the other for the corn mill workers.

The land behind and in front of the Black Castle was called Ashfield, suggesting a wood of ash trees  - just what was needed to make handles for pike weapons as well as innocuous cart wheels. Marshfield House was at the end of Mill Lane. It was occupied by Captain Thomas Atkinson, a military officer, who married Grace Alice Cane, aka Coane, daughter of a local clergyman.

The Black Avenue was in place and between it and Mill Lane, within the lands of Marshfield, was a man-made canal linked to the Liffey, and used as a fish store, a kind of refrigerator of the day for the occupiers of Marshfield.

The road continued on down to St Catherine’s Park, where a tall house stood, recently tenanted by the Earl of Lanesborough, but in 1792 occupied by David La Touche, of the Huguenot banking family.

It shortly thereafter burned to the ground and about 1798 a new house, also called St Catherine’s Park, was built in the same townland to the design of Francis Johnston; it is now Liffey Valley House Hotel. 

St Catherine's Park c.1792

It was later occupied by a succession of generals in the 19th century. Sentry boxes set against the demesne walls housed soldiers on security duty; they were red coats. Across the Liffey from St Catherine’s Park was Lucan Demesne, the seat of Agmondisham Vesey, Colonel of the Co Dublin Militia.

Sileachán Lane continued up to the Confey Road and onwards past the already ruined Confey Castle; the line of road continued past Confey Stud residence and on to Dunboyne.

On the left near the modern Glendale estate was a large farmhouse, Newtown Park. This was home to the Goodshaw family of farmers and millers; a daughter, Jane, married Richard Turner, the famous maker of wrought iron-framed glass houses.

The construction of the Royal Canal made its way across the north side of Leixlip, creating a cul de sac of Sileachán Lane thenceforth. Thousands of labourers and stonemasons worked on the construction of the Canal, particularly on the enormous engineering project of the day, the aqueduct which carried it across the Rye Water. They came from far and near and probably lived in the many small cottages which, fifty years later, were found to be ruined as Millicent man, Richard Griffith’s valuers assessed them for local tax purposes. Some would have dwelt in lodgings in the town and they, more than most, would have created a demand for market produce.

Leixlip House, on the Captain’s Hill, had been built ~45 years earlier as Gazebo Park William Brady, a trustee of the Turnpike, and was still occupied by him and his namesake son. General Brady received the arms of local men in an amnesty during the rebellion of 1798. The General died on 25/5/1800. Slightly further up the hill, a Queen-Anne-style house, Newtown Hill House, had transferred into the ownership of Guinness – probably Richard Guinness, the Leixlip brewer - as the previous owner, Miss Elizabeth Bryan, had commissioned a survey of her property at Newtown in 1796; this was usually done in readiness for a sale or lease. 

Newtown Hill House

A little further up, Newtown House, was in the control of Hamilton Rowan, the rebel leader, for papers instructing the distribution of arms were found a century later in the attic.

Leixlip’s Main Street was more or less as it appears today: The Mall terrace had been built by a speculative builder called Roecastle ~1785. Recent archaeological examinations within these houses revealed floors of regular, but small cobble stones about 0.8 metres beneath the internal floors in several of the houses, confirming that earlier houses, probably dating back to the Norman period, had been set much further back towards the sharp escarpment to the rear which encloses the town centre. This feature is crudely shown in a map of 1752. The terrace had earlier been called the Parade. ‘The Parade’ is redolent of ‘redcoats’, or kilted, gaelic-speaking Highlander soldiers, promenading themselves about this part of the town as a routine exercise, or whilst accompanying the gentry who dwelt in Leixlip Castle on their state visits, of which newspapers of the day attest.

The sites of the Mall houses extended originally down to the river, thus confirming that the houses on the south side of the Main Street were built not long after them, a tradition continued by contemporary developers in analogous situations! The Old Hill was then the main road to Maynooth and the west. During the Rebellion the Duke of Leinster’s daughters had to go that route to collect passes from the Castle; they passed the hanging body of a man called Byrne, bearing green ribbons, on a nearby tree. There were cottages on the west side of Old Hill from Pound Street to the junction with the Celbridge to Barnhall road, which had been built less than fifty years. Between the latter road and Green Lane was a race course in the tenancy of John Keegan, farmer. To its west were the ‘concerns’ of Michael Bartley, Thomas Burke, John and Bart Coogan and to the west, the concerns of Andrew Kelly and Charles Neill (aka Neal). Daniel Simmonds, for around 25 years secretary to the Turnpike Commissioners, lived at Collinstown House.

He owned the lands from his residence to Louisa Bridge, which had been newly built in 1794.

Simmonds was an attorney and practiced from Clare Street, Dublin. In 1804 he married a neighbour, Sarah Cooper, whose family had settled in Barnhall around 1756, and later lived at Easton House. 

 John Eston Simmonds (Easton House) and William Donnellan (Ravensdale House) were officers in the Leixlip volunteer cavalry at the time.

Many troops of one kind or another were billeted in the town, most likely in Leixlip Castle, which had accommodation of over double that of today. They were also billeted in the Black Castle on Mill Lane. Government troops billeted at Leixlip include those who featured in a defeat at Castlebar; the battle was known as the ‘Castlebar Races’. These troops wed local women, who had children by them. They were married by the Vicar, Edward Berwick, son of the 2nd Duke of Berwick; the first Duke fought for King James at the Battle of the Boyne. The parish register at St Mary’s Church records them:

Marriages
Arthur Williams, Private, Kilkenny Militia & Christiana Fowlkes of Leixlip, Spinster (5/2/1799). Joseph Hewen, Esq, Captain, Angus Fencibles & Eliza-Ann Guinness of Leixlip, Spinster (13/7/1799). Nathaniel Brady, Private, Londonderry Militia & Ann Magrath of Leixlip, Spinster (18/10/1799). John Downing Nesbit, Esq, of Tober Daly, Kings County, Captain, Londonderry Militia & Jane Brady of Leixlip, Spinster (16/1/1800). William Cowper, Private, Aberdeenshire Fencibles, & Martha Frazer of Leixlip, Spinster (1/3/1801). Henry Kerr, Musician, Aberdeenshire Fencibles & Mary Johnston, daughter of Sergt Johnston, 3d Regiment, Spinster (3/5/1801). William Dow, Private, Aberdeenshire Fencibles, & Frances White of Lucan, Spinster (25/10/1801). Thomas Barker, Private, Aberdeenshire Fencibles, & Catharine Brennan of Leixlip, Spinster (13/12/1801). John Hutchinson, Private, Aberdeenshire Fencibles, & Teresa Kelly of Leixlip, Spinster, (27/12/1801). Alexander Shanock, Private, Aberdeenshire Fencibles, & Sarah Downey of Leixlip, Spinster (17/1/1802). John Story, Private, Aberdeenshire Fencibles, & Frances Cassidy Leixlip, Spinster. Thomas Jump, Private, Aberdeen Fencibles, & Honora Mealy of Lucan, Spinster. (20/4/1802). William Owen, Esq, Lieutenant, 67th Regiment of Foot, & Matilda Guinness of Leixlip, Spinster (17/2/1803). Thomas Davis, Private, Antrim Militia, & Margaret Doherty of Leixlip, Spinster (8/2/1807). Robert Kinly, Private, Antrim Militia, & Margaret Martin, Leixlip, Spinster (29/3/1807). William Jones of Radnnshire Militia, Private, & Anne Corrigan of Leixlip, Spinster (22/11/1802). Henry Sullivan of Dublin County Militia to Eliza Ward of Leixlip (18/2/1818).

Deaths
On 6/10/1797, a Soldier. On 23/10/1797, a Soldier. On 30/11/1799, Sergeant Downing, Londonderry Militia, Leixlip. On 1/12/1799, Sergeant Pollock Londonderry Militia, Leixlip. On 28/5/1800, General William Brady. On 19/1/1814, Lieutenant O’Mally’s child. On 24/11/1820, Philip Lorance [sic], County Dublin Militia. On 26/1/1821, Sergeant Boyce, County Dublin Militia. On 9/12/1821, Captain Charles Baugh Hill. On 16/3/1823, Captain Hackett’s child [He lived in Music Hall.] Captain Burke died on the 1st and was buried on the 3d of July 1835.

Births or Baptisms
Lucy, dau of Capt Thomas & Eliza Woods, 12th Easter, 1782. Helen, dau of James Dougherty, artillery soldier, Leixlip, 7/9/1783. Eleanor, dau of James & Mary Dogherty, Leixlip, 3/6/1787. Letitia, dau of Prime Sergeant Fitzgerald, Lucan, 10/8/1788. John, son of Andrew Molloy, 47th Regt, Private, Lucan, 19/10/1788. Mary, dau of James & Mary Dogherty, Lucan, 15/8/1792. Anne Louisa, dau of Robert & Celia Mayne, soldier in Fermanagh Militia, born 3/12/1797. John, son of Andrew & Margaret Hamilton, private in the Fermanagh Militia, born Leixlip, 15/3/1798.  James, son of Matthew & Bridget Johnston, private in the Fermanagh Militia, born 17/4/1798. Elizabeth, dau of William & Joanna Brimner, surgeon, Duke of York’s Highlanders, born 17/6/1798.  Margaret, dau of Robert & Mary Sarsen, private, Kilkenny Militia, born 31/10/1798.  James, son of James & Elizabeth Lewis, private, Kilkenny Militia, born 30/11/1798.  Francis, son of Samuel & Sarah Townshend, Private, Londonderry Militia, born 7/4/1799.  William, son of William & Eliza McAulay, Private, Londonderry Militia, born 11/4/1799.  Samuel, son of William & Bridget Moffit, Private, Londonderry Militia, born 23/5/1799.  Mary, dau of Dougall & Hannah Clarke, Private, Angus Fencibles, born 12/9/1799.  Jane, dau of Walter & Margaret McFarland, Private, Londonderry Militia, born 17/9/1799.  Elizabeth, dau of George & Margaret May, Private, Londonderry Militia, born 29/9/1799.  Harriet, daughter of Major & Lady Colthurst Grey, 41st Regt, born 25/10/1799.  Margaret, dau of Barnaby & Mary McAlpine, Private, Londonderry Militia, born 23/11/1799.  Hugh, son of Hugh & Ann Harton, Corporal, Londonderry Militia, born 5/12/1799.  Juliana, dau of Arthur & Christian Williams, Private Kilkenny Militia, born 7/12/1799.  Catharine, dau of John & Jane Ferguson, Lieutenant, Angusshire Fencibles, born 21/1/1799.  James, son of George & Elizabeth Dickson, Private Angusshire Fencibles, born 21/12/1799. 
 

For more information on Sandford, Major General Robert, MP, of Leixlip;  Dempsey, Yeoman Nicholas and Lord Edward FitzGerald; Fergusson family; Salmon Leap Inn; Leixlip Castle see John Colgan, Leixlip, County Kildare, Leixlip, 2005.  Email: johncolgan at iol.ie

John Colgan.

The pair of cataracts called Salmon Leap, once a famous tourist attraction, is now gone from view following the installation of a hydroelectric power station in the mid-1940s by the Electricity Supply Board. This event typifies Leixlip history: it has been hit by waves of industrial development. Industrial, and more recently, great residential development has presented challenges for the town’s statutory body and for voluntary groups like the Leixlip Tidy Town Association.

Being close to the capital, Leixlip became a resting place for middle classes and gentry. Having extensive water power, various forms of mills were established: corn, iron, paper, flax, flock, linen-printing and lastly saw mills; these and agriculture provided employment.

The town’s village-centred, built-infrastructure was mostly completed by 1820 and remains essentially thus today, despite the ravages of incessant and frequently insensitive shopping and commercial development this past 40 years.

The terrace of eight houses at the Mall (formerly called The Parade), Main St, Leixlip, which remain substantially unchanged in appearance since they were speculatively built about 1785. (From a watercolour by Janet Colgan)

About 1969 there commenced the construction of large housing schemes, drawing commuting residents, many from the west of Ireland, to live in Leixlip. Water and access to Dublin remain the key advantages to business. This lead to the Intel Corporation establishing its largest factory outside the USA here, with all the ramifications of that for construction traffic, commuters, expanded fresh and waste water pipe-works etc. Hewlett Packard, too, has set up a manufacturing and banking business on the southwest of the town. Together they generate a very substantial portion of the rates’ revenue in County Kildare.  During this interval the housing stock and population rose to around 5,500 homes (from 400) and around 16,000 residents (from c1,000, and taking account of parts of adjoining areas within our remit). Many thousands commute here every day and some 60 per cent of employed Leixlipians commute daily – mostly to Dublin.

Leixlip Tidy Town Association (LTTA) was founded in 1963 by community members, lead by Colonel Niall Mac Neill, resident and retired head of the Ordnance Survey. At this time an existing historical society created awareness of a need to conserve the historic buildings and natural beauty of the town, such as Leixlip Spa (discovered in 1793). In 1970 the Association fostered the establishment of a Community Council to secure amenities and to moderate excessive, imbalanced, development. This later led to the establishment of a Town Council in 1988. However, the town council has negligible power; planning and other decisions are made remotely in the county town of Naas, which is accessible by circuitous routes and very inconveniently by public transport.

Leixlip has managed to retain some of its historic buildings and structures: the Castle of Leixlip, overlooking the confluence of the Rye and Liffey; the Black Castle tower house, albeit scarcely recognisable as such now, which overlooks the old road from Dunboyne to Leixlip; the ruin of the Eustace’s Confey Castle which overlooks the same road; an ancient encirclement and probably prehistoric farm nearby (from which word Confey derives its name); the World Heritage feature, the eccentric Wonderful Barn and its pair of pigeon houses at Barnhall townland; St Mary’s Church on Main Street; the Toll House on the bridge of Leixlip; two 18th century generals’ houses, Leixlip House and St Catherine’s Park, and the remains of a courtyard brewery operated by Richard Guinness, brother of the famous Arthur Guinness.

Aerial view of Leixlip Castle (~1200), with hydroelectric power station and water works in the background

Originally called Gazebo Park, after the gazebo which allowed the privileged to look over the Liffey below, Leixlip house was built by William Brady, an army officer, who received the arms of local rebels in an amnesty during the Rebellion of 1798. It is now a small hotel of the same name.


The clock tower on St Mary's Church, Main Street, was built in Norman times and was used as a priest's residence
 

The bridge of Leixlip built 1732-4 by the Dublin to Kinnegad Turnpike Commissioners and the Bridge or Toll House from the same period. It is the only Irish bridge pre-railway era known to have stonemasons' marks on it.


Wonderful Barn - A World Heritage site: the grain magazine on five storeys built by John Glinn in 1743 at Barnhall, Leixlip after the year of the Great Frost

The graveyard within the curtilage of St. Mary's Church (of Ireland, Episcopalian) served the wider Leixlip community, without reference to religious denomination, for many centuries. This community extended from Lucan on the east, to St Catherine's on the north east, to Confey on the north, to Barnhall and Parsonstown on the west, to Westonpark and Cooldrinagh on the south; it straddled the river Liffey and included parts of Counties Kildare and Dublin. St. Mary's graveyard is complemented by graveyards at Confey - both old and modern - just north of Leixlip town, Donaghcumper near Celbridge to the southwest, Donoughmore near Pike's Bridge to the west and Esker cemetery to the east in Lucan.

St Mary's graveyard is now virtually full and contemporary Leixlip burials - apart from cremations - are usually to the modern cemetery at Confey. The parish records of burials to St Mary's extend from 1668 to today. Unfortunately, substantial gaps exist in the years for which records are available; for example, during the period, 1668 to 1777, there are no entries in 44 of the years. There are smaller gaps in the data for the 19th century records.

The gravestone inscriptions in St Mary's graveyard provide additional information about Leixlip burials and sometimes about the burials elsewhere of persons related to those buried at Leixlip. This information is additional in two senses: it augments the rudimentary information in the Church's burial records about individuals cited there and, secondly, it occasionally provides information about burials in St Mary's for which there is no local written record extant.